A Hick/Snob in New York

Okay, so this post is late, I know. But hey, last week this time, I was in NYC! Yes, very lovely, very cold, very rude. Sure you all know about people there being bruque and busy. But this is my experience. I know, they have very little desire to exercise their face muscles and smile (a little) once in a while. The only exchange (the entire time!) I had with a random stranger was at a coffee shop where he made a mistake (afterall, 'tall' means small, even though it sounds like it's a HUGE cup of coffee, and everyone, absolutely EVERYONE, in Manhattan knows that!:o)), and so was embarrassed enough to make an apologetic face at me and say, "Oh, well, my brain isn't functioning, of course I knew tall versus grande!" To which I had to console him with a, "Who cares? Just ask for a small coffee, it's okay...no?" Apparently that wasn't the right answer, for the barista glared at me into silence. I broke the cardinal rule--New Yorkers don't make eye contact, don't smile and definitely don't talk, chitchat or banter for no reason. To think I'd lived in that state when I landed in this country sixteen years ago and still smile a bit too much. Obviously the CA sun's made my brain soft. I have become one of those always-smiling-like-an-idiot Californians! So, that was my 2c venting on non-smiling New Yorkers. (But wait, just like a late-night informercial, there's more!)

     The city itself is beautiful. The hustle, the noise, the sirens, the $5 'pashmina' shawls....it's got personality, character, personality (wait, I said that already!). It has a purpose, everyone looks very important, rushing to very important places, and everyone has that vacant look in their eyes, and really, truly don't want to make eye contact (or else something really bad might happen), and everyone's on their respective iPods, iPhones or Blackberries and they really need to discuss the discussion they had a few minutes back so they can schedule another discussion at yet another street crossing even though they may be on their respective phones standing next to each other waiting for the light to change. Is it just me? Are these people really that important? If you're not important, you shouldn't be there? That's what I got for eavesdropping, I guess.
Of course, besides all that, there are the museums. And MoMA is one of my favorites. I used to go there in the 90s, from grad school (schlepping from Long Island when the trains moved slower than we could run!), and so it was going down memory lane. Some views of MoMA, and the cathedral next door:

I'd thought this Warhol image (part of the soup collection) was so much bigger. That's what happens when you imagine New York. Things may not be big, they just appear to be.

     Here's one of my favorites, a Rauschenberg--and yes, it is an actual bed! A decade and a half ago, this wasn't enclosed in glass, and yes, I did touch it, and yes, the security people did yell at me and glare at me like all New Yorkers usually do. So it was amusing to think they put that glass case up to stop me from touching it again. But if there's one museum you have to go to when you're in NYC, MoMA is it. (I'm sure you know that already, and go on, roll your eyes as you read advice from a hick).

     I managed to hang out in St. Patrick's Cathedral too--I love churches. Don't ask me why, and don't analyze me either. I love the architecture, and the huge space inside them, and this cathedral is gorgeous.

And while I was there, I heard the commotion outside, for it was Veterans' Day, and 5th Avenue had a festive look, for it was parade time. The traffic was controlled, the security tight (these guys know what to do), and military people from different generations and wars were everywhere. School kids paraded down the street, and the WTC flag passed by too. The hick was ultra-impressed (jaw-dropped, waving-at-veterans-wildly-for-no-reason-kind-of-impressed).

The NYC police officer is a blur, yes, I know. He was moving way too fast! Not sure if the bagpipers could have guarded the borders much in those skirts flying around, so the police had to take over, I guess. Fun parade really.

And now, onto the food. That's where the snob part comes in. No, before you judge me, I've always loved the food there. What's not to love? But this time, man, did we pick the bad ones! The first one was a Zagat rated Thai place (Holy Basil) in East Village. The decor was great, ambience better, service (almost) smiling. It was great. It couldn't be bad. This is New York! But they didn't have any soup that was vegetarian. I watched Sanjay's face drop. The poor vegetarian had nothing to eat in New York. This was unheard of. We've always managed his vegetarian dishes anywhere, even in carnivorous Brasil. Finally, we got a Pad Thai for him which was edible but nothing great. And then, adventurous Ms. Hick i.e. me, decided to go for scallops and shrimp in red curry. Just one phrase to describe this--grit and dirt in the scallops. I mean, I'm usually quite submissive, and I was that evening. Did I return the plate? No. Did I curse them? No. Did I swallow the gritty scallops. Yes. But I think it was more out of shock (and utter disappointment) rather than anything else. New York serves the best food--what just happened?

   Anyway, that was redeemed in the theater district. Went to Tramonti, a small Italian restaurant between 8th and 9th on 46th, the pizza was fresh, the pasta (house special) light and sauce, a delight. The olive oil was gorgeous, a light taste that went well with their bread and the service was impeccable, even though it's right in the middle of tourist territory. It was wonderful. Yay for New York.

    The vegetarian found his place too. Ate the best falafel wraps at a busy almost-fastfood yet organic and fresh place, Crisp. Their motto is, "Crisp is fresh, and fresh is what Crisp lives by". It was light, a whole lot of food, and some of the best falafels I've tasted in a while. Try their African wrap if you get the chance.

     On the way back, Sanjay took some photos of a lively New York night--

And I thought to myself, you know, I'd forgotten how beautiful this city really is. So instead of looking for ways to tell you all how different it is or its people are from where I live, I should just sit back and just enjoy how charming it is. So, yes, the hick survived New York, and the snob slunk back home. If you are planning a trip there this winter, maybe around Christmas, then take the time, smile lots at random strangers (and throw them off!), breathe in the crisp city air, and enjoy!